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Frequently Asked Questions

Q. Are your products safe to use around children and pets?
Yes. Our products are made from natural products and are non-toxic. There is no re-entry time after application of our products. Your children and pets can go on the lawn immediately after the treatment is done.

Q. Do your products really work?
Yes, they really do. All of our products are specifically designed to improve your soil and to feed the grass. We have scientific test data and customer testimonials that demonstrate superior plant growth rates and resistance to stress.

Q. How are your products applied?
All of our products are applied using typical lawn care application equipment. We will use a sprayer for the liquid products and a spreader for any granular ones.

Q. Are your products liquid or granular?
We use a combination of both. The majority of our products are powerful, organic, foliar concentrates meaning we spray them on your lawn. There are a couple specialty products that are natural granular products that we would apply with a spreader, but they aren't part of the regular 6-application service.

Q. Does it take longer for your products to work?
It does take a little bit longer, but not a great deal longer. The reason synthetic chemical fertilizers that are applied by chemical lawn care companies work so quickly is because they are water-soluble and dissolve and leach immediately. The downside to this is that up to 60% of the product ends up "off target" and inevitably in ground and surface water.

Q. How do I control weeds and disease without chemicals? How about insects?
Our program includes products that will protect your lawn from pests. However, you will find that, if you adhere to proper practices when it comes to mowing and watering, weeds will become less of a problem. Also, as you improve the health and pH of your soil with our products, the grass will be thicker and stronger creating an environment that is much less hospitable for weed growth. A little tolerance is necessary too. What is really wrong with a few dandelions or patches of clover?

As for disease activity, you will immediately see a decrease in nuisance diseases that result from overuse of synthetic chemicals and are a side effect of a sterile soil environment. Healthy soil creates healthy plants! We can offer suggestions for insect control, grubs, etc., without hurting earthworms and other beneficial insects. You will also find that as your soil improves, and your turf becomes healthier, the need for controls decreases significantly.

We have three organic based or OMRI approved natural herbicides that we use as needed and can discuss with you the applications of each, and when they might be suitable.

Q. Can our products be applied near bodies of water and will they contribute to algae blooms?
Every single one of our products can be applied near bodies of water because they do not contain synthetic sources of nitrogen and phosphorus. They will not contribute to algae blooms because of this. They are also chelated, meaning they are available to the plant immediately. Liquid applications are also more efficient and greatly reduce any run off effect.

Q. Is it more expensive to use organics?
Nope, usually not. The BeeSafe® line of products and applications are organics based on science not organics based on lots and lots of fertilizer. We’ve found that in most cases the BeeSafe program is pretty competitive with even the national chemical lawn care services.

Q. How much should I water?
It sounds silly but you should only water as much as your lawn needs and it's difficult to put an exact amount on "how much" is enough. When your lawn begins to show drought stress you should water it deeply. As long as it is raining occasionally you don't need to water your lawn. When it gets hot and dry you should try to water your lawn a few times a week. Infrequently and deeply is ALWAYS better than everyday for ten minutes per zone. If your lawn begins to go dormant from lack of water, it's okay! It's a natural defense mechanism to stay alive and it will come back as healthy as ever when sufficient water is available. You will find that by using organic products you will see a HUGE reduction in the amount of water needed to keep your lawn green. Ask to see our “Irrigation” brochure which helps you understand replacing soil water not just watering...

Q. Do your products smell bad?
Some of our products have kind of a slight earthy odor, but it is not noticeable after the treatment has been applied.

Q. Should I bag or mulch my clippings? Will the clippings contribute to thatch?

If you can you should always mulch your clippings. Grass clippings hold tons of nutrients and moisture. They will not contribute to thatch. In fact, when you switch to organic products you will notice that the thatch layer in your turf will decrease significantly.

Q. How high should I mow?
Always mow as high as you can. Or as high as you can stand it. Our rye and fescue grasses are best mowed at a height no less than 2.5-3”.

Q. Do I need to do a soil test every year?

We will perform a soil pH test on your lawn every single spring. More extensive soil testing may be necessary occasionally but is not a requirement. Often, we can determine enough information about the soil by applying a few basic principles: smell, appearance, structure, drainage, signs of life...As soil is fed and biological activities improve, the balance and fertility will return by itself.

Q. My lawn care company says that they are "organic based." What does that mean?
Well, it usually means that they are trying to make you think that they are safer than chemical lawn care companies. It's unfortunate, because it may be false advertising and attempting to lead you to believe that they don't use synthetic chemical fertilizers and dangerous pesticides. Many lawn care companies use "Bridge" products that contain chemical sources of nitrogen and phosphorus combined with reconstituted sewer sludge (Biosolids) and call it "organic based." Most of the time these companies also continue to use pesticides freely and with no concern for reduction.